Malapascua

Malapascua, a jewel, a paradise, come for the scuba diving, the easy life, the quietness, the blue of the water and the beaches !

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Updated:

January 28, 2019

Pierre Bourbonnais

A multitude of villages succeed one another, small and poor, big and not so poor, but always crowded with people busy with their daily tasks. Cars, trucks and scooters follow each other in a constant cloud of fuel smoke and dust. We sometimes sail along the sea, in our crowded local bus, sitting on hard and straight benches, following the movement of a suspicious suspension. We searched in vain for the “luxury” bus, supposed to be fast, direct and air-conditioned. But the one who has been appointed to us has none of these attributes. Detours, constant stops to take or leave passengers and no air conditioning. But the air is cool this morning, at least. A veil of thin clouds attenuates the sun’s rays. It is 09:00. We left Cebu City, Philippines, more than 2 hours earlier, in this rough bus.

... listening to my favorite Genesis album "The Lamb Lies Down on Broadway"

But I have my head in the clouds. Listening to my favourite Genesis album, “The Lamb Lies Down on Broadway“ headphones in the ears, which invariably makes me think of my dear and forever friend Claude. The sun is getting hot, a big contrast with the previous day, in Cebu City, where it rained torrents all day long. Walking through the city, in the lakes and rivers of rainwater, Karine and I snuck into the streets and alleys to sort out the last details before heading to Malapascua. Malapascua is a small island north of Cebu where life promises to be much quieter. The fact that there is no ATM on the island is usually a good sign when one is looking for peace.

And suddenly, we find ourselves surrounded by palm trees, the city has given way to the countryside. Sweet smells of floral hibiscus, frangipane and grilled chicken on charcoal! Even the sea, now ubiquitous, to turn from gray to turquoise. The small tension of the departure from Cebu City is turning into a party for the senses. Despite the fact that we continue to constantly stop to renew the passenger load of the bus. I take off my headphones and notice that a colony of yellow chicks are travelling with us, peeping constantly in their two-story plastic crates. They must be wondering what the heck is going on!

Port Maya, starting point to reach the îsland of Malapascua

We arrive in Port Maya. This is where we embark aboard a big banka, these traditional boats which one finds everywhere in the Philippines, towards our paradise island, so they say! Seeing it in the distance, and as one approaches it, it seems that what they say might be true. This island is beautiful!

Once we have your feet in the sand, we follow the directions from Maps.Me and find ourselves at the heart of a maze of streets and alleys of sand and gravel. A labyrinth for the newcomer. Here, no big buildings, no cars, no shopping center. It is an island mainly of fishermen. Malapascua is also known for the quality of the diving sites of the surroundings and the presence of numerous thresher sharks. But this is not an article on diving.

We come for the atmosphere, the charm...

After a ten minute walk, backpacks on our backs, we arrive at Villa Sandra. A very popular backpackers’ Guesthouse. Here, we are light years away from 5-star hotels, luxury “resorts. We are rather in a place with dormitories and some private rooms. These are rather rudimentary, without furniture, except for a bed. In general, it is the place of predilection of the 18-30 years old, who have no need for luxury, provided that it is less expensive.

But, we do not come to Villa Sandra for luxury. We come for the atmosphere, the charm of the service and especially for vegetarian and vegan food. I am not a vegetarian and I am very far from my twenties, but I know how to recognize the beauties of the place. Any long-term traveller understands and researches these kinds of places, really much cheaper than the big neighbouring hotels. Even at 58! In the evening, local musicians from all over the world come on stage and offer their arts for the enjoyment of all.

Neverland

At the time of our visit, in January 2019, another accommodation project was born. Neverland, a place where creativity and respect for the environment are brought together by a duo of 2 friends, Richard & Jonathan. They decided to take advantage of a small piece of land that belonged to one of them. Their passion is contagious. The accommodations, in the form of huts, are very original. The showers, build of bamboo, are absolutely divine. I fully regret not accepting their offer to try it. I predict, and wish, a lot of success to this dynamic and friendly group.

A road leads to some beaches

The south of Malapascua is more developed. This is where we find the majority of hotels and dive centres. This part is surrounded by the long Bounty Beach to the south and east, and Logon Beach to the west. The latter is filled with bars and restaurants, perfect for the 5 @ 7 at sunset.

But in the day, to escape from the center and see the magic of wild Malapascua, it is to the north that you have to go. A road leads to the center of the island and to some superb beaches with amazing turquoise water. And as the wind is predominant from the north, the intense heat of this month of January becomes more tolerable. About a 30-minute walk away, Langub Beach, which is bigger and has a great swimming option, is beautiful. And we can stop at the restaurant to eat or drink a cold beer.

Bantigue Beach, on the other hand, is much smaller and offers a lot of peace, at the moment we were there. Reading a book in the shade of a palm tree here is a divine experience! The remains of a hotel behind the beach, half-finished and worn by the winds, give the place a rather dismal air, without tarnishing the beauty of the place. Swimming is a little more difficult at low tide and water sandals are appreciated.

Preserve Malapascua from an ecological disaster.

As a result of the ecological setbacks of the idyllic Boracay Island, Malapascua Island, located about 120 km to the northwest, is taking on measures to deal with the pollution issues … At least, shows the first signs of it. For example, weekly meetings with all those who wish to volunteer for the cleaning of the beaches surrounding the island.

The Government of Cebu Province is implementing programs to help. The educate, the people of Malapascua, how to prepare for an ever-increasing number of visitors. Solar and wind powered energy systems will soon be set up. A seawater desalination plan to transform it into drinking water and thus limit the use of plastic bottles and others. In addition, recycling, using of bamboo as building materials and having bamboo straws in a large number of restaurants, demonstrate the clear intention to preserve Malapascua from an ecological disaster.

If, like us, you are not fans of scuba diving, there are still some places to go snorkeling. But if, sitting in the shade of a palm tree, reading a book, bathing and resting is what you are looking for, Malapascua is highly recommended. The atmosphere is very calm. The only motorized vehicles, apart from the bankas, are scooters that offer taxi services, for a few dollars. No car, for the present time, a charm! And for the kindness and hospitality of the Islanders, know that the mere fact of smiling to them is enough to create a link.

Go to our Malapascua Travel Guide for additional information!

We use different websites and phone apps for our hotel, hostels, homestay, apartment or house reservations. Very convenient and often cheaper than in person at the location. By clicking on the icons below, you’ll get a discount on your next booking and at the same time, we will also receive a discount of our own.

WHAT A DEAL, NO?