Bonaventure River – Flying Sardines

ATLANTIC SALMON FLY FISHING ON THE MAJESTIC BONAVENTURE RIVER

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Updated:

September 27, 2017

Pierre Bourbonnais

Around twenty years ago, my good friend André invited me to join him and some friends for a fishing experience for Atlantic Salmon on the Bonaventure River. This river is unquestionably one of the most majestic of the planet due to the clarity and the turquoise color of its waters, which leaves nobody indifferent. The story was that we could potentially catch Atlantic Salmon over 15 kilos. Having been a trout fisherman since my childhood and having caught trout that I considered big enough at about 2 kilos, I was immediately taken by the invitation. So with very little experience fly-fishing and even less for Salmon, I took the road to the Gaspé Peninsula and some 875 km of Montreal (9:30 nearby road), I finally arrived to Bonaventure where this magnificent is located. All I had heard was true. This was the beginning of a great love story with la Gaspésie and fishing for Atlantic Salmon on the Bonaventure Rivers , and the people how live there … I go back almost every year, as excited as the first time I went.

The Bonaventure River originates in the Chic-Choc mountains located in the center of the Gaspé Peninsula and runs for about 115 km, finally reaching the Atlantic Ocean, in the Chaleur Bay on the south coast of the peninsula. The fly fishing for Atlantic salmon on the Bonaventure River is managed by a ZEC (Controlled Exploitation Zone) and divided into eight sectors, including 3 public and quotas 5. These last ones are awarded by random pre-season draws and by 48hrs advance draws. Sectors quotas from the center of the river (B1, B3, B4) and the most upstream sector (E) are the most coveted. the number of fishermen being restricted on a daily basis. In recent years, the catch and release of the “Great Salmon” is mandatory, this has not discouraged the salmon fishermen to continue pursuing their sport.

Last year, I initiated my friend Vincent who, to my surprise, did master the technique of launching flies rather quickly enough. He even managed to catch his first Atlantic Salmon. This year it was my good friend François’s turn to taste the delight of fly-fishing for Atlantic salmon on the Bonaventure River. I could see the gleam in their eyes, when the fly was slowly drifting towards salmon holes who were leaping out of the water at all times. I also still see the wounds left in their hands as they held their fly rod so intensely and “whip” ferociously to manage to launch these tiny flies far enough to reach the area where the salmon is. I saw many lose their calm and angry against their fly rod! With time, we all realize that everything must be done gently, without forcing. And, blistered hands disappear …

I think it will not be their only experience and they will both return… even if at the end of the line (no pun intended), it was me who caught the salmons this year.

“Good food is very often, even most often, simple food.”

-Anthony Bourdain

Salmon fishing is also everything around fishing. Beginning usually early morning. Coffee and quick breakfast to arrive at the hole as fast as possible. Then a few hours of intensive fishing before stopping for lunch. And then, the fun of cooking à meal on the fire, opening à bottle of wine and rest our backs and legs for à while. Lobster, soups, steaks, pasta, anything comforting, in the middle of this natural setting. Well… sometimes we do eat à ham sandwich… when time is missing.

Then comes the siesta on the edge of the river. Much needed to get back in shape and face the second part of the fishing day, which can technically extended 1 hour after sunset.

And it is often there, at twilight, when the sun goes behind the mountains and the hole becomes dark that Salmo Salar, said the King of Rivers, is more active and attacks the fly and offer the angler and unforgettable ride.

Oh yes … I almost forgot! There is also the unexpected, the unusual things that happen at the worst times. Last year, at the Baker hole, we had to cross the river on foot to reach the the other side where we could fish and reach the salmons. With water up to our thighs, we had to pick à spot to pass through without too much water current. But some have a different way of seeing things !!! At the end of our day of fishing, I returned to the other side of the river, toward the truck, because I knew that we had a soft tire to deal with, caused by a rather rough road we took the night before. My friend Vincent gathered the rest of our things which had served us for lunch. But in his hurry to cross before it got completely dark, he did not secure the material quite well on the top of his backpack. In the middle of the river, at the exact spot where I had told him not to cross because of rapid water movement, he lost his footing, thied to regain his balance and wham … lost the bag containing the cast iron skillet, plates, espresso coffee maker, cutlery, stove,etc !!! He just had enough time to look at some items floating, carried away by the strong current, and incapable of reaching anything. I hope he will remember to traverse in calm water next time. We had à good chuckle about the whole incident. We still do!

If you like fishing and nature, I strongly advise you to visit this beautiful region of Gaspésie, with its many rivers, the Baie des Chaleur and colorful and friendly residents.

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