Tam Coc is a small village near Ninh Binh, which is more popular. However, Tam Coc is more personal, friendly and amazingly well situated to explore around.

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After our adventures in Cat Ba, in the Halong Bay, we headed toward Tam Coc. We had planned to take a few days to work. Write articles, write restaurants and hotels reviews and sort our hundreds of photos. We decided to allow a little extra on the accommodation budget since we would be staying in the room longer than usually. So we rented a small bungalow in a rice field, away from the city and all possible distractions. And it was worth it. Our homestay,  Lotusfield Homestay had 5 bungalows with breathtaking views and the wind coming straight into the room from the 2 huge windows. We spent 2 days writing, editing and adjusting our blog.

Lotus Field Homestay
Hang Mua

Once our mission was accomplished, we headed into town and joined Simon and Charlotte, the French couple we met during our Northern Loop. We spent the next 3 days with them.


On the agenda, 1 day of push-bike, 1 day of scooter and 1 day to free improvisation. The push-bike day was beautiful. It began under overcast sky where we discovered the Hang Mua Pagoda and climb the mountain of the same name. 500 steps later, our efforts were rewarded as the view from top allowed us to admire an awesome panorama of the surrounding countryside, around the famous limestones formations rising all around. At the top of Ninh Binh’ world, we met a travelling couple, motorcyclists, bloggers from South America. It was a short meeting but we immediately felt a connection. We have kept in touch with them since and sure hope we will meet again along the way. If you want to see their work, their Instagram account is: profesionbackpacker. Their photos are sublimes.

We continued our way to Bich Dong Pagoda where we climbed a few more steps to access 3 beautiful temples, including one situated in a cave. But the best part of the visit was the discovery of a small valley behind these temples. The light of the sun setting made the experience unforgettable. With a lake, palm trees, small bamboo platforms, I was really moved, I would have spent hours there. Just relaxing, and enjoying the beauty of the landscape, taking-in the beautiful energy that emanated from this magical place. I could not stop taking pictures and making videos. It was a great moment !

Bich Dong entrance
No-Name Valley...
No-Name Valley 2...

As sunset time was just around the corner, we spotted a small bar / cafe facing the rice field perfect for the sunset lovers that we are. Unfortunately, the bar was receiving a new vending machine so it defeated our plans because the large delivery truck was blocking the entire view. So, we headed to our hotel, a little pitiful but discovered that we had, on our own terrace, VIP tickets to this wonderful show! Our French friends and two other Quebecois joined us.  6 travellers 6 beers, one guitar and a sunset. These are ingredients that will give you a memorable time.

Dark Sunset near Tam Coc, VIetnam
Sunset over Tam Coc
Bai Dinh Temple

Our scooter day was slightly less exciting than our exceptional bike day. We visited an ancient citadel with another pagoda and huge gardens filled with Buddhas carved in the tower. It was nice. We ended the day by visiting a floating village.

Kenh Ga floating village

The free improvisation day for me was a relaxed morning working in a super-lounge cafe-bar, La Carte. A place we loved for its atmosphere, its music and decor. Pierre went walking around in the ricefields with the French couple and we met in the afternoon to spend the rest of the day lounging by the pool of Tam  Coc Garden Homestay. With the purchase of a few beers, we had access to their wonderful pool.

Rice Field near Tam Coc
Tam Coc Garden homestay

We loved this little town. We strongly recommend not to miss it, even at the expense of Halong Bay. But that is the opinion of Flying Sardines. I found it most magnificent scenery than Halong Bay. And should you decide to take the small row-boat tour through rice fields and caves, we strongly recommend you don’t take the boats in the middle of the Tam Coc but rather make your way to nearby Trang An. They offer à similar tour, cheaper and more spectacular.

 

Our stay in Tam Coc finished with a last dinner at our favorite restaurant, Thuy Linh. (I looooove having a great diner with 2 beers for 7.50$).

We left at 23:00 on the overnight bus to Da Nang.

And we had no idea what was waiting for us. Water … lots of water!

THINGS TO KNOW

  • Xuân Lai BBQ: if you pass by at night, you see the duck roasting. It was good. Of course there is not that much meat around the bones. But the taste is good and it different. The sauce that come with it was awesome.
  • Thuy Linh: little restaurant in front of the hotel La Belle Vie. Everything was delicious except the goat that was over cooked.
  • Orchidée: nice terrace, nice staff, good food.
  • Cookie’s Beer Garden: We didn’t eat, but the menu looked delicious. The decor is trendy.
  • Lotusfield Homestay: We dealt it for 530,000 VND per night included breakfast. It was usually 650,000 vnd. The place is very secluded. In the middle of a rice field at 10-15 min drive from downtown Tam Coc. It was absolutely wonderful. The beauty of the landscape is breathtaking. They have bike you can borrow.
  • La Carte Lounge Bar and Hotel: We have visited 1 room from this place and it was clean and cotrect. 500,000vnd per night, no breakfast. Great lobby for coffee or beer. Beautifully decorated.
  • Tam Coc Garden Homestay: We went there because they had a pool and we could use it if we bought a beer and/or had something to eat. The place is beautiful. 7min bicycle ride from downtown Tam Coc. They rent little bungalows, they also have a nice dorm. On hotels.com the price was 848,848vnd per night for a double room and 155,844vnd for the dorm.
  • La Belle Vie: We were looking for a new hotel so we visited this one. They are bungalows. The viet was speaking good French and was ready to deal it around 450,000 vnd 20$us. It is usually around 650,000 vnd. The garden was beautiful as the bungalow.
  • Long Hotel: This is a nice budget hotel, with great view on the sunset. We paid 250,000 vnd per night for a double room included a breakfast buffet. We had a better price by booking on Booking.com then directly at the hotel. The staff is nit the greatest.
  • Nam Hoa Hotel: 450,000 vnd/20$us Nice room, beautiful bathroom with rainshower. Clean
  • La Carte lounge Bar and Hotel was a great place for coffee. I have not tasted the coffee but the place is beautiful.
  • La Carte Lounge and Bar: I had a beer at 20,000 vnd
  • Pier Pub: Reggae bar with a pool table. 25,000 vnd for a beer.
  • Cookie’s beer Garden: beautiful place to have a beer while watching the sunset

Thank you to the geek explorer blog. He gave is the perfect itinerary for what to do in Tam Coc in 2 days. It was perfect. Please go read it, it is filled with useful info.

Bicycle day: bikes can by rent for 30,000-40,000 per day.

  • Tam Coc Rice Fields. It is beautiful check on his map for where to go. But everywhere you go it is beautiful.
  • Bich Dong Pagoda: I loved it. Be careful for the parking, they will try to charge you more. It is 10,000 for Motorbike and 5,000 per bicycle. The entrance to the Pagoda is Free!!! Also we have discover a BEAUTIFUL field right behind the pagoda site. Cross the bike parking and follow the path around the “lake” and climb the stairs. What

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