Siquijor – Flying Sardines

Siquijor, the mysterious island, where it is said that witchcraft is still practiced by the ancient local inhabitants. The natural beauty says otherwise...

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Updated:

February 13, 2019

Pierre Bourbonnais

Danger may be everywhere!

The Filipinos fear it. They say they practice witchcraft. That people cast bad spells by tapping you on the shoulder or in the back. Better beware of Siquijor Island …

For some, it’s enough to discourage them from coming to Siquijor. But we were curious. The attraction of these small islands, less frequented by tourists always attracted us. So, we went. Error, or not?

Located in the southern Visayas region of the Philippines, Siquijor is an island still very well preserved, mass tourism has not yet discovered the place. It is about 340km² therefore, half the size of the island of Singapore.

The first impressions of Siquijor, coming down from the ferry that drove us here from Dumaguete on the island of Negros, are positive. Multiple palm trees along the road, clean surroundings, people smiling a lot and welcoming, and not the least trace of witches. But we have just arrived. Let’s stay alert. Danger may be everywhere!

Les gens nous saluent et nous sourient sourit au passage.

The road that leads to our accommodation, north of Larena, is superb. Beautiful viewpoints, colourful little houses, and wall-to-wall smiles. So far, so good …

We were lucky to find a small house on Home Exchange, located in a resort, by the sea, The Casa de la Playa. A bit far from the centre of Larena and the busiest city of San Juan, but nothing that can’t be easily accessed by scooter. In addition, the hotel’s restaurant serves succulent and diverse dishes.

The main road goes around the island along the coast. Some roads cut through the island, passing by the mountain. At the time of our passage, these roads were in repairs, semi-finished, which makes access somewhat hazardous. But the views are worth the detour. Small villages stand everywhere along its winding roads, and again, people greet us and smiles at us. The youngest ones, approach and try to get a high-five on the way. This is also where we can find the Cambugahay Falls, a series of cascades and waterfalls where you can swim or swing at the end of a rope before falling into the water. A little too much “organized” for my taste, but we do not always choose.

But apart from a small shop selling little voodoo dolls, we still do not see any signs of the alleged practice of witchcraft. Where are those infamous witches hiding?

The water is of a stunning turquoise

Siquijor is not one of the places where white sand beaches abound. In fact, they are rather rare. There is the beach of Salagdoong, where the water is of a stunning turquoise. Better to go early in the morning, because it becomes very busy thereafter. Two platforms offer to the adventurous the opportunity to dive in the deep and inviting waters. But there are still some beautiful places where you can go snorkelling from the beach, especially in front of the Coco Groove resort.

If you are looking for a little more action, the city of San Juan is the place where many travellers meet. Several accommodations and restaurants with international food strew the main road. Prices are higher, compared to the rest of the island. Popularity has a price! So living a little out of the way and renting a scooter can be a good option. It has been for us. And the scooter ride around the island is a perfect pleasure for the senses. Palm trees, birds, smells of flowers and rice fields, deep blue waters, charming villages. Near the church of San Isidro Labrador, built in 1884 in the Tigbawan (Lazi) region, huge trees stand out to offer a fantastic panorama … almost magical! When we were there, the church itself was closed for renovations, but I’m sure a visit would be very interesting. A huge convent, on the other side of the road, can also be visited.

Everything is there to seduce.

We really liked Siquijor, and can say that we had no contact with witches or witnessed any dubious practices. Nobody threw bad spells at us either. The only thing that struck us was the exemplary friendliness of the residents. It reigns a peaceful and serene atmosphere. And the fact that not a lot of tourists venture on Siquijor was, for us, a big plus. You get more of a “real Philippine” feeling. Highly recommended!

We use different websites and phone apps for our hotel, hostels, homestay, apartment or house reservations. Very convenient and often cheaper than in person at the location. By clicking on the icons below, you’ll get a discount on your next booking and at the same time, we will also receive a discount of our own.

WHAT A DEAL, NO?